June Havoc
in Assiut
As I continue my ongoing research into the history of assiut cloth, one of the themes I’ve been exploring is the use of assiut by Hollywood fashion designers. One of my all-time favorite appearances of assiut in an American movie is this lovely dress designed by Peter Tuesday for the 1947 movie Intrigue.
Assiut Gown Designed by Peter Tuesday
Peter Tuesday is a mysterious figure in the world of Hollywood costumes. He did the costume design for only two major motion pictures and while this dress is divine, the rest of the costumes in this rather long and slow film are just okay.
Legendary Actress June Havoc
June Havoc began her career in the world of vaudeville as “Baby June,” a singing and dancing child star and younger sister to the notorious Gypsy Rose Lee. She went to Hollywood and became a screen siren through the ’40s but later returned to her theater roots to become a Tony award-winning director.
Intrigue: A Film Noir Movie
In Intrigue, June Havoc plays the icy blond and coldly sinister Mme. Tamara Baranoff. Her dress is lusciously painted onto her star-worthy physique, which lends her statuesque frame a cool metallic quality that supports her hard-as-nails character. In this publicity shot, you can see the striking late 40’s shoulder pads and the popular dolman cut of the sleeve both of which emphasize her tiny waist.
This scene is lit to showcase this assiut gown to the perfect advantage. Although dark, the lights set the metal ablaze as she stalks around her office. It’s the perfect gown to wear while flirting with Hollywood’s most popular gangster, George Raft. There’s a clip integrated into a music montage, so be prepared for some pop music if you follow this YouTube link. If you find the full film, be warned, the movie is a bit slow-moving but worth the wait to see every angle on this magnificent assiut dress.
Movie Still: June in Assiut Gown
The image above captures June at the height of Hollywood glamour. This is one of the movie stills released by United Artists to promote the film. These were printed as 8 by 10 black and white glossies. Included in press releases and sent to movie theaters for film promotion, you can occasionally find these popping up in the film collectors markets, eBay and etsy.
The montage to the left are screen captures from the film. Notice how the assiut changes in tone and texture as she moves through the various lighting conditions in the room.
For more about my research on Hollywood and Assiut, check out this article over at Gilded Serpent.
Assiut and Hollywood.