Lili Damita was photographed at Studio Menasse Foto Salon in Vienna in 1930.  Lili, a celebrated French actress, is best known for her marriage to screen actor and Hollywood hunk Errol Flynn.  She was captured in this bohemian, yet elegant photo shortly before her screen career ended and she became a mom.  It was wildly popular for well travelled women to be artistically photographed nude or in this case, nearly nude.  Her lovely geometrically patterned assiut shawl features the strong linear forms popular during the art deco era.

This is just an update for my readers – I sent a issue of Costumer’s Notes Newsletter!  I’ve received quite a few emails from folks with questions, many of which are the same.  If you’re having difficulty reading Costumer’s Notes or didn’t receive it all, one of the following things may have happened.

1. I didn’t receive it. – You may not be signed up. Solution: simply sign up again. There’s a signup form on the top of the right hand column.
2. I didn’t receive it, but I know I’m signed up.  It may be in your Spam folder. Do a quick search of your spam folder and move my newsletter back to your mailbox. Depending on your particular email service and viewer, you may need to add my email address davina@davina.us to your white list.
3. I got it, but I can’t see any pictures! You have the ability at signup to pick HTML or Text-Only versions of my newsletter. If you would like to switch, simply signup again and pick the HTML option.

If all else fails, email me at davina@davina.us with  RE: NEWSLETTER in the description and I will check on it for you!    Thanks for your continued support!

Costumer’s Notes Reader Exclusive
Get a copy of “The Belly Dance Reader” for $20.
Special thanks to Lynette, editor of Gilded Serpent eZine for extending this fantastic offer.
Coupon code is in May 2013 Costumer’s Notes Newsletter

Assiut Costuming Suppliers

Many people have written to me with the same inquiry, Where did you get _______?   In an effort to share my costuming experiences with the world, here is a short list of the top resources I’ve used during the production of my next book, The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut.   I hope that some of these links will prove useful in your own costuming projects!

Happy Costuming and Delicious Dancing ~ Davina.

Modern Assiut – Vendors in the US who have I have reliably bought modern assiut from.

-       Scheherazade Imports

-       Dahlal International

-       Turquoise International

Things I use in the preparation and construction of many of the assiut costumes that will appear in the book.

-       Jewelry – Shiny Sparkly Things

-       Rhinestones – Rhinestone Guy

-       O – Rings for Tribal Bras –  Purse Supply Warehouse

-       Favorite Bra – Frederick’s of Hollywood XXtreme Cleavage

-       Make your own bra – Bra Makers Supply of Canada

One of the most useful things in my arsenal of tools is my Costume Planning Sheet.  This is the place where I record details about each project I work on.  I record the name and contact information of each dancer, title of the costume, materials, embellishments and a sketch.  I also make notes as I work on the project, especially keeping track of the time in the sewing log.  In the notes section, I include measurements I need, and any notes that come up in any fittings.  I almost always make more notes on the back and that’s where I sketch out sketches of the garments laid flat.

Even if you don’t sew for anyone other than yourself, this tool might help you stay organized, efficient and on budget.  Good luck with your next costuming project!

Making a simple and easy vest out of an assiut shawl

One of the most simple, easy and affordable items to make out of a standard assiut panel is the One Slice Swing Vest.  This graceful waterfall style of vest works best when made from cloth with intrinsic stretch.  Assiut, with it’s strong hexagonal structure, is at once both extremely strong and quite flexible.  However, I’ve made really nice versions of the One Slice Swing Vest out of jersey and fleece.  If you are worried about making a mistake, you can make a sample first and give it a try.

To make the One Slice Swing Vest, all you need to do is cut a simple straight slice down the center of the fabric 14″ to 20″ long.   Position this slice approximately 3″ – 4″ from one edge.  This narrow edge will become the collar and will rest on the back of the neck.   The longer length becomes the back which will rest from the waist down over the hips.

The one slice swing vest is a great way to integrate assiut into your daywear wardrobe!  You can wear the vest dressed up with a dress, belt and heels, or you could play it down with casual jeans and sandals.

]]> http://www.davina.us/blog/2013/03/assiut-one-slice-swing-vest/feed/ 0 http://www.davina.us/blog/2013/03/belly-dance-belt-tutorial/ http://www.davina.us/blog/2013/03/belly-dance-belt-tutorial/#comments Fri, 08 Mar 2013 19:19:32 +0000 Davina http://www.davina.us/blog/?p=2530 Last weekend, I had the pleasure of working on a dance costume for one of my models, Shalimar, for an upcoming performance in Las Angeles.  We were under a deadline, and I had to crank out the outfit soup-to-nuts in 2 days.  Since I’ve been working on the step-by-step construction portion of my upcoming book, [...]]]>

Last weekend, I had the pleasure of working on a dance costume for one of my models, Shalimar, for an upcoming performance in Las Angeles.  We were under a deadline, and I had to crank out the outfit soup-to-nuts in 2 days.  Since I’ve been working on the step-by-step construction portion of my upcoming book, The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut, I thought this would be a great opportunity to quickly test drive some of my ideas for the photography in the book.

Using my trusty cell phone and the power of Instagram, I very quickly documented the progress.  The result was a series of step-by-steps that really work – but the photos are not quite up to publishing quality.  However, rather than wasting them, I decided to hammer together this quick tutorial on my belt making method.  This is sized for 8.5″ by 11″ so you can print it out if you like.  Wanna see the final costume?  You can scroll down and watch the video of Shalimar in her “test drive” performance on Wed before the big show on Friday night.  We’ll be doing formal photography of this baby in a couple of weeks, and I’m looking forward to spotlighting this ensemble in my upcoming book!

Famous Assiut Sightings:  Barbara Streisand

During the 1970′s there was a rising nostalgia for the freedom, style and lust for life of the jazz babies of 1920′s.  Vintage assiut shawls, coats and dresses were avidly collected by bohemian artists, actresses and musicians.  Barbara Streisand, appeared in the movie “A Star is Born” wearing a coat and dress made from some opulent  shawls mace of this vintage cloth.  For the movie, in which she acted as producer as well as star, she pulled garments from her own closet to use in the film. In a slide show entitled “Signature Style: Barbara Streisand,” In Style Magazine, Barbara comments on a 1976 publicity still for the movie.

“Here I am with Kris Kristofferson in A Star Is Born. I designed the dress: I took a couple of my silver and black shawls and draped them. Isn’t that cool? Slinky, snaky, shiny. I gave myself a little credit at the end of the movie—it just said, ‘Miss Streisand’s clothes from her closet.’ I was made fun of, but it was the truth!”

The design of the dress utilizes several shawls cut on the bias which conforms to every curve of her body.  In contrast, the loose drape and flow of the over coat echos the popular cocoon-style wrap coats that were a favorite of flappers.  The assiut outfit appears in the scene where Barbara as Esther, attends the Grammy awards as a nominee, and ultimately, wins the award for best song.  She takes the podioum to receive her award clad in the full ensemble.  Here’s a quick clip from the beginning of the scene before she begins her acceptance speech.  You can really see the move and sway of this glorious ensemble.

In the 2004 charity auction “Her Name is Barbara” this ensemble was placed on sale through Julien’s Auction House and sold for $3,600.00.  The auction catalog included these four superb photographs and this description:

“Full length gown and cape made of silver and black metal mesh … It features a geometric design, spaghetti straps, skirt in two layers, gathered at back, slit at left side, undergarment sewn into bodice, lined in velvet at décolletage area, zipper and snap closure at back, together with matching wrap around full length cape featuring short sleeves, body comprised of three sections including two front panels and one back panel, bodice lined in nude chiffon. The stunning ensemble was worn in the film for the scene in which Barbra Streisand as Esther Hoffman wins a Grammy award.”

In a moment of life imitating art, Barbara did actually win the Grammy award for best song for “Evergreen” in real life, but choose a more sedate black lace dress at the ceremony.

http://www.instyle.com/instyle/package/general/photos/0,,20310479_20303649_20668184,00.html#20668191
http://www.juliensauctions.com/auctions/2004/Streisand/catalog/catalogsale3.html