{"id":3306,"date":"2015-07-06T17:13:08","date_gmt":"2015-07-07T00:13:08","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/?p=3306"},"modified":"2015-07-06T17:13:08","modified_gmt":"2015-07-07T00:13:08","slug":"hemming-assiut-by-machine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/2015\/07\/hemming-assiut-by-machine\/","title":{"rendered":"Hemming Assiut Garments by Machine"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Assiut-Hem-Title\"I enjoy working with modern assiut and I often use my sewing machine for seams and hems. Many dancers like to open the side seams of their assiut garments from hem to hip for maximum freedom of movement. Most ready-made assiut robes, however, arrive stitched closed to the hem. Although assiut doesn\u2019t fray, a clean smooth well stitched hem will hang and move better.\u00a0 <\/span>Here are my top tips for the achieving the best machine hemming results.<\/span><\/div>\n
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\u00a01 – Carefully open unwanted seams<\/strong> –\u00a0 <\/span>Assiut has lots of holes, and it\u2019s easy to catch them with the tip of your seam ripper, so be extremely careful when picking open seams.\u00a0 <\/span>I like to use a good strong light source and go very slow while taking the existing seams apart.
\n<\/span>My favorite two seam rippers:
\n<\/span>Classic style with ergo handle: http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Dritz-Ergonomic-Design-Large-Ripper\/dp\/B003VWL0YO<\/a>
\n<\/span>Super-sharp scalpel style: http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Crafters-Companion-Ultra-Seam-Ripper\/dp\/B0006V1TBM<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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\"Assiut-Hem-Chalk-Mark\"<\/p>\n

2 – Use chalk to draw your new hem line<\/strong> – Although your robe might have been previously sewn, you might choose to put your new hem in a slightly different line.\u00a0 <\/span>To achieve a clean new hemline, use a ruler and either a marking pencil, chalk, or wheel to draw your new fold line.
\n<\/span>I keep all three of these marking tools in my kit, and pick the best one for the job.
\n<\/span>Chalk Wheel – http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Dritz-662-Chalk-Wheel-Kit\/dp\/B0081GYA8I\/\u00a0<\/a>
\n<\/span>Tailor\u2019s Chalk – http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Triangle-Tailors-Assorted-Colors-Quilting\/dp\/B00XI64MFC<\/a>
\n<\/span>Marking Pencil – http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Dritz-667-Tailors-Marking-Set\/dp\/B0052WSQHK<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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\"Assiut-Hem-Pressing\"3 – Use your iron<\/strong> – Using your chalk line as a guide, fold and press your new hem in\u00a0to place.\u00a0 <\/span>If there is enough seam allowance, as there was on this blue robe, I like to fold the raw edge under during the pressing process.\u00a0 <\/span>If the seam allowance is too narrow, don\u2019t worry about it.\u00a0 <\/span>Assiut won\u2019t unravel, so as long as you have more than 1\/8\u201d your new hem will hold up.\u00a0<\/span>Tip: Since assiut is made from cotton, it will press very well when using seam – but watch out – the metal stitches can get very hot – so let it cool down before touching it.
\n<\/span>Black & Decker Steam Iron –\u00a0http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Black-Decker-D2030-Auto-Off-Advantage\/dp\/B0006ZUHR0<\/a>
\n<\/a>Sunbeam – http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Sunbeam-1500-Watt-Anti-Drip-Non-Stick-GCSBCS-200-000\/dp\/B00JPCWDS6<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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\"Assiut-Hem-Pinned\"4 – Pin parallel to the hem<\/strong> – After your fabric has cooled off pin your new hem into place. I like to\u00a0 <\/span>position my pins parallel to the hem with the tips of the pins pointed to the left.\u00a0 <\/span>This will hold the hem in place during the sewing process and will allow you to easily pull the pins out as you sew.\u00a0 <\/span>Avoid placing your pins perpendicular to the hem, as that can cause twisting as you remove them, or risk breaking the needle if you attempt to sew over the pins.
\n<\/span>Pins –\u00a0http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Dritz-4-Inch-Quilting-Quilters-500-Pack\/dp\/B001UAM3UY\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

5 – Use a sharp fairly thick sewing needle –\u00a0<\/b>When working with assiut, I always begin a new garment project with a fresh sewing machine needle. When working with modern\u00a0assiut, I like\u00a0to use a universal needle in a size 14, so the needle will have enough strength and a sharp enough tip to penetrate the metal stitches.<\/div>\n
TIP: ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE EYE GEAR WHEN SEWING MODERN ASSIUT!<\/em> \u00a0Although a sharp needle will penetrate the stitches, needles do get dull, and as soon as it’s dull, it can snap when it hits the metal. \u00a0I wear always glasses when sewing to protect my eyes from broken needles and\u00a0shards of metal.<\/div>\n
Sewing Machine Needles –\u00a0http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Universal-Machine-Needles-Size-14-Pkg\/dp\/B000YZ7JAK<\/a><\/div>\n
Protective Eye Gear –\u00a0http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/Radians-Remington-Protective-Eyewear-Outdoor\/dp\/B00KHOFWTI<\/a><\/div>\n
\"Assiut-Hem-Machine-sewing\"6 – Sew slowly –<\/b> Always go nice and slow so you can control the shape of the seam\u00a0and pull your pins out as you sew. To remove your pins easily, simply use your thumb to capture the heads of the pin and as the machine pulls the fabric through, your thumb will pull the\u00a0pin out of the cloth. This technique works best when using\u00a0big-headed pins\u00a0with brightly colored heads.<\/div>\n
My favorite sewing machine –\u00a0http:\/\/www.bernina.com\/en-US\/Products-US\/BERNINA-products\/Sewing-Quilting-and-Embroidery\/BERNINA-Classic-Series\/BERNINA-1008<\/a><\/div>\n

<\/h2>\n

\u00a0You can do it! \u00a0Good Luck!!! \u00a0 ~ Davina<\/em>
\nJuly 6, 2015<\/p>\n

BE CAREFUL – SEW SLOWLY – WEAR EYE PROTECTION<\/strong><\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"\"\"<\/a>

I enjoy working with modern assiut and I often use my sewing machine for seams and hems. Many dancers like to open the side seams of their assiut garments from hem to hip for maximum freedom of movement. Most ready-made assiut robes, however, arrive stitched closed to the hem. Although assiut doesn\u2019t fray, a clean […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3344,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_eb_attr":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[45,8,10,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3306","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-assiut-assuit","category-belly-dance","category-belly-dance-costuming","category-general"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/Assiut-Hem-Title.jpg?fit=504%2C504&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2YZtR-Rk","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3306","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3306"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3306\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3354,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3306\/revisions\/3354"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3344"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3306"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3306"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3306"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}