{"id":5364,"date":"2017-11-07T10:52:49","date_gmt":"2017-11-07T18:52:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/?p=5364"},"modified":"2017-11-07T11:19:42","modified_gmt":"2017-11-07T19:19:42","slug":"sleeve-pattern-adjustment","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/2017\/11\/sleeve-pattern-adjustment\/","title":{"rendered":"Sleeve Pattern Adjustment for Full Upper Arms"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Just wanted to take a moment to answer a quick question regarding adjusting my <a href=\"https:\/\/www.etsy.com\/listing\/151420125\/gloves-and-gauntlets-sewing-pattern-by\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">belly dance sleeve pattern<\/a>. &#8220;How do you expand the sleeve to make the bicep bigger?&#8221;\u00a0 In my experience, (and after making hundreds of pairs of these sleeves,)\u00a0 the quickest approach is to use a simple slash-and-spread technique.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; padding-left: 30px;\"><strong>Cut<\/strong> out the pattern piece you plan on altering.\u00a0 I recommend cutting just outside the black pattern line.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; padding-left: 30px;\"><strong>Draw<\/strong> a long line from the sleeve point to the middle of the upper edge.\u00a0 See the top diagram for the position.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left; padding-left: 30px;\"><strong>Slash<\/strong> or cut along the dotted line in the upper image, to &#8211; but not through &#8211; the point at the end of the pattern. You want your two pattern pieces to remain stuck together at the point.<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><strong>Spread<\/strong> the pattern open to the desired width and tape in place on supporting paper.\u00a0 I always use a scrap of the pattern paper.<\/p>\n<p>How much should you spread?\u00a0 That really depends on how much your fabric stretches.\u00a0 My rule of thumb is to take your bicep measurement and subtract an inch.\u00a0 Spread the sleeve pattern to your your new length, bicep &#8211; 1&#8243; and then tape the pieces down.\u00a0 It should look similar to the lower illustration.\u00a0 If you can, sew a test sample out of similar fabric.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"5366\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/2017\/11\/sleeve-pattern-adjustment\/cxct2372-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?fit=576%2C576&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"576,576\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"CXCT2372\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?fit=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?fit=576%2C576&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-full wp-image-5366 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?resize=576%2C576&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"576\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?w=576&amp;ssl=1 576w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">Original Post about <a href=\"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/2017\/11\/belly-dance-sleeves\/\">Belly Dance Sleeves<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>I suppose I could have redrawn it more formally, I just noticed I didn&#8217;t even cross my T&#8217;s in the word &#8220;pattern.&#8221;\u00a0 If learning about fitting commercial patterns is on your agenda, I&#8217;m going to recommend investing in a good fitting book.\u00a0 There are many on the market today, but there are two that I have found useful to have in my sewing reference library.<\/p>\n<h3><strong>Reference Books on Pattern Adjustments<\/strong><\/h3>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"5368\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/2017\/11\/sleeve-pattern-adjustment\/512rndnugvl-_sx374_bo1204203200_\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/512RndNUgVL._SX374_BO1204203200_.jpg?fit=376%2C499&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"376,499\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"512RndNUgVL._SX374_BO1,204,203,200_\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/512RndNUgVL._SX374_BO1204203200_.jpg?fit=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/512RndNUgVL._SX374_BO1204203200_.jpg?fit=376%2C499&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-5368\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/512RndNUgVL._SX374_BO1204203200_.jpg?resize=90%2C119&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"90\" height=\"119\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/512RndNUgVL._SX374_BO1204203200_.jpg?resize=113%2C150&amp;ssl=1 113w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/512RndNUgVL._SX374_BO1204203200_.jpg?resize=226%2C300&amp;ssl=1 226w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/512RndNUgVL._SX374_BO1204203200_.jpg?w=376&amp;ssl=1 376w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 90px) 100vw, 90px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Pattern Fitting by Nancy Zieman &#8211;\u00a0<\/strong>Nancy Zieman has an entire line of sewing books, and I find this one pretty stinking good!\u00a0 Her methods are sound and her technique really works.\u00a0 She presents a way of thinking and problem solving that will really help you make your garments fit beautifully.\u00a0 \u00a0 It&#8217;s available as a <a href=\"http:\/\/amzn.to\/2zEsFVM\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">book<\/a> and\u00a0in <a href=\"http:\/\/amzn.to\/2zDGinQ\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Kindle<\/a> form.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"5369\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/2017\/11\/sleeve-pattern-adjustment\/51teay3gkll-_sx297_bo1204203200_\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/51teay3GklL._SX297_BO1204203200_.jpg?fit=299%2C499&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"299,499\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;0&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"51teay3GklL._SX297_BO1,204,203,200_\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/51teay3GklL._SX297_BO1204203200_.jpg?fit=180%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/51teay3GklL._SX297_BO1204203200_.jpg?fit=299%2C499&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignleft wp-image-5369 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/51teay3GklL._SX297_BO1204203200_.jpg?resize=90%2C150&#038;ssl=1\" alt=\"\" width=\"90\" height=\"150\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/51teay3GklL._SX297_BO1204203200_.jpg?resize=90%2C150&amp;ssl=1 90w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/51teay3GklL._SX297_BO1204203200_.jpg?resize=180%2C300&amp;ssl=1 180w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/51teay3GklL._SX297_BO1204203200_.jpg?w=299&amp;ssl=1 299w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 90px) 100vw, 90px\" data-recalc-dims=\"1\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure by Sandra Betzina<\/strong> &#8211; Another iconic author in the sewing world, Sandra Betzina, has a slightly different\u00a0approach to the same material.\u00a0 I really\u00a0enjoy her\u00a0writing\u00a0voice, and her\u00a0method is easy to understand\u00a0and\u00a0really works.\u00a0 \u00a0Her title is available in <a href=\"http:\/\/amzn.to\/2zoGKpi\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hardcover<\/a> and <a href=\"http:\/\/amzn.to\/2zpdkFu\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">paperback<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>These two books are my favorites, and they are both equally good. That said, you don&#8217;t need both!\u00a0 You only need one fitting reference book to have on hand so pick the one that is most appealing to you. While I included links above for your convenience, I always recommend shopping for sewing reference books at your favorite used bookstore. These have been on the market a long time and so finding them second hand is good for both the environment and your pocketbook!<\/p>\n<p>Now I want to spend the rest of the day flipping through my sewing books.\u00a0 But no &#8211; time to hit the sewing machine and make some costumes!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: right;\"><strong><em>Have a great day!<\/em><\/strong><br \/>\n<strong><em>Dawn Devine ~ Davina<\/em><\/strong><br \/>\n<strong><em>November 6, 2017<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<a href=\"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/2017\/11\/sleeve-pattern-adjustment\/\"><img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?fit=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignleft tfe wp-post-image\" alt=\"\" decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?w=576&amp;ssl=1 576w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?resize=150%2C150&amp;ssl=1 150w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?resize=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" data-attachment-id=\"5366\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/2017\/11\/sleeve-pattern-adjustment\/cxct2372-2\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?fit=576%2C576&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"576,576\" data-comments-opened=\"0\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;orientation&quot;:&quot;1&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"CXCT2372\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?fit=300%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?fit=576%2C576&amp;ssl=1\" \/><\/a><p>Just wanted to take a moment to answer a quick question regarding adjusting my belly dance sleeve pattern. &#8220;How do you expand the sleeve to make the bicep bigger?&#8221;\u00a0 In my experience, (and after making hundreds of pairs of these sleeves,)\u00a0 the quickest approach is to use a simple slash-and-spread technique. Cut out the pattern [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5366,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_eb_attr":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[10,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5364","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-belly-dance-costuming","category-general"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/CXCT2372-1.jpg?fit=576%2C576&ssl=1","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/p2YZtR-1ow","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5364","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=5364"}],"version-history":[{"count":10,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5364\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5378,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5364\/revisions\/5378"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/5366"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=5364"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=5364"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.davina.us\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=5364"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}