Hemming Assiut Garments by Machine

 1 – Carefully open unwanted seams –  Assiut has lots of holes, and it’s easy to catch them with the tip of your seam ripper, so be extremely careful when picking open seams.  I like to use a good strong light source and go very slow while taking the existing seams apart.
My favorite two seam rippers:
Classic style with ergo handle: http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-Ergonomic-Design-Large-Ripper/dp/B003VWL0YO
Super-sharp scalpel style: http://www.amazon.com/Crafters-Companion-Ultra-Seam-Ripper/dp/B0006V1TBM

2 – Use chalk to draw your new hem line – Although your robe might have been previously sewn, you might choose to put your new hem in a slightly different line.  To achieve a clean new hemline, use a ruler and either a marking pencil, chalk, or wheel to draw your new fold line.
I keep all three of these marking tools in my kit, and pick the best one for the job.
Chalk Wheel – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-662-Chalk-Wheel-Kit/dp/B0081GYA8I/ 
Tailor’s Chalk – http://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Tailors-Assorted-Colors-Quilting/dp/B00XI64MFC
Marking Pencil – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-667-Tailors-Marking-Set/dp/B0052WSQHK

3 – Use your iron – Using your chalk line as a guide, fold and press your new hem in to place.  If there is enough seam allowance, as there was on this blue robe, I like to fold the raw edge under during the pressing process.  If the seam allowance is too narrow, don’t worry about it.  Assiut won’t unravel, so as long as you have more than 1/8” your new hem will hold up. Tip: Since assiut is made from cotton, it will press very well when using seam – but watch out – the metal stitches can get very hot – so let it cool down before touching it.
Black & Decker Steam Iron – http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-D2030-Auto-Off-Advantage/dp/B0006ZUHR0
Sunbeam – http://www.amazon.com/Sunbeam-1500-Watt-Anti-Drip-Non-Stick-GCSBCS-200-000/dp/B00JPCWDS6

4 – Pin parallel to the hem – After your fabric has cooled off pin your new hem into place. I like to  position my pins parallel to the hem with the tips of the pins pointed to the left.  This will hold the hem in place during the sewing process and will allow you to easily pull the pins out as you sew.  Avoid placing your pins perpendicular to the hem, as that can cause twisting as you remove them, or risk breaking the needle if you attempt to sew over the pins.
Pins – http://www.amazon.com/Dritz-4-Inch-Quilting-Quilters-500-Pack/dp/B001UAM3UY/

5 – Use a sharp fairly thick sewing needle – When working with assiut, I always begin a new garment project with a fresh sewing machine needle. When working with modern assiut, I like to use a universal needle in a size 14, so the needle will have enough strength and a sharp enough tip to penetrate the metal stitches.

TIP: ALWAYS WEAR PROTECTIVE EYE GEAR WHEN SEWING MODERN ASSIUT!  Although a sharp needle will penetrate the stitches, needles do get dull, and as soon as it’s dull, it can snap when it hits the metal.  I wear always glasses when sewing to protect my eyes from broken needles and shards of metal.

Sewing Machine Needles – http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Machine-Needles-Size-14-Pkg/dp/B000YZ7JAK

Protective Eye Gear – http://www.amazon.com/Radians-Remington-Protective-Eyewear-Outdoor/dp/B00KHOFWTI

6 – Sew slowly – Always go nice and slow so you can control the shape of the seam and pull your pins out as you sew. To remove your pins easily, simply use your thumb to capture the heads of the pin and as the machine pulls the fabric through, your thumb will pull the pin out of the cloth. This technique works best when using big-headed pins with brightly colored heads.

My favorite sewing machine – http://www.bernina.com/en-US/Products-US/BERNINA-products/Sewing-Quilting-and-Embroidery/BERNINA-Classic-Series/BERNINA-1008