Al-Tally: A History of Assiut in Pictures

I’m excited to share my latest article about Assiut Al-Tally in Fanoos Magazine. This is one of my current favorite belly dance publications. Each quarter, subscribers receive a free “blog-o-zine” style publication directly to their inbox.

The theme for the summer edition is “Folkloric & Traditional Dance.”  My focus on costume history paired beautifully with this issue’s theme.  Egyptian folkloric dancers frequently wear the iconic assiut robe when performing.  And thus, an article idea was born.

I strategically selected 10 intriguing images that illustrate the history of assiut. My goal was to find a selection of images that hadn’t appeared in the book, or even on this website.

If you love assiut, visit Fanoos Magazine and check out my article in this issue of the magazine.

What is in a name?
Al-Tally vs Assiut

Fabrics and their fabrication are frequently named after their location of origin.  Some well-known examples include gauze, named after Gaza, and damask weaves after Damascus.

Assiut shawls entered English in the mid-19th century.  These shawls were named after the key city where you could buy these beautiful hand-made textiles.

I use the spelling Assiut in my work. This is how the city appears on official US maps. In other countries, the city name is transliterated into different spellings with different pronunciations. Depending on the author’s language and nationality, the spelling of the same city will vary wildly.

Today, I’m consciously integrating the Egyptian term for the technique, Al Tally.  With luck and good fortune, we can make a lasting impact on changing the language we use to discuss how Assiut/Al Tally is discussed.

To learn more about the history of this single-stitch metal embroidery technique check out my book. “The Cloth of Egypt” traces its origins in Europe, through its migration throughout the Turkish empire to the beloved embroidery technique of Upper Egypt.

• Read the Article: “Al Tally: A History of Assiut in Pictures,” Fanoos, Summer 2024. Read Here
• Check out the Book: “The Cloth of Egypt” on Amazon
• On the Blog: “Shopping for Assiut on a Budget.” Read Here
• Join the Conversation on Facebook: Assiut Group

Stay cool out there!
~ Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July, 2024

Consumable Sewing Supplies Restock

I was thrilled to finish the retro-fabulous ensemble for my client Azura.  This vintage Costless coin bra and belt set spent many years in a box in her closet.  In 2023, we began reworking the parts and pieces to breathe new life into the costume.

After months of working on this ensemble, I realized I needed to do a big restock of consumable sewing supplies.  Once I sent the costume off to take the stage at Hot Raqs in June, I embarked on a reset, restock, and general cleanup of Studio Davina.

 “Loose Inventory”

While I probably need a full inventory of all the sewing tools, materials, and supplies, who’s got time for that?  Instead, I’m just assessing the consumable studio supplies.  This “Loose Inventory” will cover the essentials I use in virtually every costuming project.

Consumable Sewing Supplies

Rather than opening every box, bin, and drawer, this loose inventory is going to zero in on consumable sewing supplies.

• Notions: These are the supplies I keep on hand, and use up while building costumes. Thread, ribbons, hooks & eyes, and even glue all fit in this category.
• Pattern-Making supplies: This category includes the supplies used while making custom sewing patterns. This includes paper, pencils, and magic tape.
• Small things that break: This group includes small tools that need frequent replacements, but don’t become part of a garment.  Consider your pins, needles, chalk, and marking pens.
• Items that dull: Although it might take longer to wear out, cutting tools like scissors, snips, knives, rotary cutters, and essentially, anything with a blade or that cuts do wear out.
• Things that stretch out: Measuring tapes wear out over time and need to regular replacement. Check your measuring tapes against your best ruler to ensure you are still taking the same measurements.
• Glues and Adhesives:  I always check for empty or dried-out containers of adhesives.  Before I repurchase I always if I need a fresh bottle, or if I should buy it right before the next project.

Summer Restock

Although my business is pivoting away from custom clothing to ready-made accessories, I’m restocking many of the same basics to cover my “consumables” needs over the next year.  Thankfully, it’s a short list:

• Marking Tools:  https://amzn.to/4eRM5Xx
• Pins:  https://amzn.to/4cocoTv
• Stretch Sewing Machine Needles:  https://amzn.to/3Lhl7ek
• Upholstery Thread – Black: https://amzn.to/4eMKp1k
• Milliners Needles: https://amzn.to/3VYQLlw
• Tapestry Needles: https://amzn.to/3VPS5au

Thank you!  If you’ve clicked through and used any of the Amazon affiliate links on my website, you’ve contributed to the upkeep of this website.

Now it’s time to place those orders and resume my mid-year sewing studio tidy.  And then make plans for upcoming sewing demos and projects.

Happy Costuming and Dance,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July 2024

PS: Are you looking for more product recommendations? Why not check out my Amazon Store Front?

Assiut in Film: “The Cat’s Meow”

Fun and flirty, this amusing cozy murder mystery stars Kirsten Dunst as Marion Davies, Cary Elwes as Thomas Ince, and Eddie Izzard as Charlie Chaplin. However, the glimpse of Elinor Glyn played by Joanna Lumley of “Absolutely Fabulous” fame wearing a vintage assiut shawl gave me a thrill.  

Cat’s Meow: Is it True Story?  Is it Fictional?

This is a stylish movie with an enjoyable plot and a beautiful cast in stunning clothes with a black-and-white color scheme.  While it is true, that producer Thomas Ince, died under mysterious circumstances.  The movie presents just one potential scenario of how this death might have happened.

Producer Carol Lewis commented: 

In November of 1924, a mysterious Hollywood death occurred aboard media mogul William Randolph Hearst’s yacht. Among the famous guests that weekend were: film star Charlie Chaplin; starlet Marion Davies (who was also Hearst’s mistress at the time); silent-film producer Thomas H. Ince (known for creating the first Hollywood studio facility and for creating an “assembly line” system for filmmaking); and feared gossip columnist, Louella Parsons.
Source IMDB

Joanna Lumley’s Assiut Shawl

These people spend a lot of time in the dining room dressed in a glamorous and expensive array of black and white clothing. Joanna as Elenor Glyn wears her assiut shawl in the final dining room scene. The mood is somber and reflective as the revelers try to figure out who shot Ince.

This assiut shawl is the perfect design choice, fitting into the color palette and underscoring these Hollywood elites’ wealth, sophistication, and glamour.

In 1924, assiut shawls were all the rage through the well-traveled wealthy set. This was the era of Egyptomania, with King Tut’s tomb only discovered two years before.  Tourists were loading up on these shawls during Nile cruises.

Styling Assiut Shawls

If you plan on wearing your assiut shawl for a fancy dinner, why not use this ensemble as a model?  Note the use of a plain black dress with a deeply cut V-neckline.  This angle echos the diamond patterns, and creates a space to showcase a stack of black and white themed beaded necklaces. The hair is swept up to allow a full view of the shawl.

Wanna See the whole film? You can watch “The Cat’s Meow” on Amazon Prime or via YouTube Premium and other places around the web.

Are you a film buff?  Did you spot the assiut worn by Mia Farrow in “Death on the Nile?”

Now I’m off to record a history class for Patreon!  
Thanks for visiting.  Happy Dance and Costuming,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July 2024

ps: Screengrabs can be very tricky.  Here’s a blurry long shot from scene. Notice how opulent and luscious Joanna’s shawl appears at a distance. 

Studio Davina Goblet Skirt

This is the final “Goblet Skirt” from Studio Davina.  I’ve made loads of Goblets since I opened my costuming business in 1986.  Too numerous to count at this point nearly 40 years later!

I named the “Goblet” based on the shape of the tabla or “Goblet Drum.”  My goal was to create a great skirt that showed of the shape of the hips while being full at the hem. This is a beautiful design for “spinners” who want the best of both worlds, showcasing the curves and the moves.

Goblet Skirt in Pink

Shalimar’s Pink Goblet is a prime example of how you can get a very sleek fit when still, but still provide lots of flow during performances.  Check the skirt in motion at this holiday performance at the Bean Scene in Sunnyvale, California.

Making a Goblet Skirt

Are you interested in making a goblet-style skirt?  It is a five-panel construction using a combination of gores and godets.  There are three gored panels in the front and two pieces in the back.  The center back seam allows for an easy customized fit of the derriere.

There is a discussion of gores and godets in my book “Skirting the Issues and Pants for the Dance.”  With a few simple tools and a little know-how, you can quickly make a custom-fitted skirt pattern to your, or your client’s, physique. Available on Amazon or at my Etsy Store.

No Deadline Era

It’s the end of an era.  But the beginning of a new season at Studio Davina.  Moving forward I will focus my costume design and construction in service to more videos, blogs, articles, and books.

When I make a garment or accessory, the key battle cry will be “No Deadlines” to preserve the health and vitality of my hard-working costumer hands.  I haven’t stopped, I’m just turning down the dial to accommodate this season of my life.

Need more info on goblets with gores and godets?  Be sure to sign up for my newsletter to receive notifications when blogs, demos, and workshops debut.

Now off to finish the final goblet,
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
June, 2024