Valentino as “The Young Raja”

Silent screen heartthrob Rudolph Valentino was the king of Hollywood when he made the movie, “The Young Raja” in 1922.  Although the film was considered lost for decades, parts have survived and been restored.  I was thrilled to find a video on YouTube that features stills presented sequentially, along with several lost clips. 

Surviving Film Clips of Assiut in Motion c. 1922

Fast forward to about the 12 min mark or Visit the TCM website for the best quality video of the scene “I am a Fatalist” to see this magnificent assiut jacket in motion.  Although the film is grainy and damaged, you can see the luxurious shine and the liquid metal drape of this cloth.  This jacket is even more magnificent in the promotional stills. 

Fitted Jacket in Assiut

These two images are my favorites that have survived.  In this profile image, you can see how the unknown costume designer has lined this jacket.  This not only gives the assiut textile support for this tailored style, but it also helps enhance the contrast and make the metal design pop. 

In the front-facing image below, you can really see the style lines and the way the designer placed each motif and geometric pattern to enhance the shape of Valentino’s physique.  The diamond patterns on the sleeves visually broaden his shoulders.  While the vertical placement of long style lines down the front of the jacket emphasizes his height.

Want some more vintage assiut?  Check installments of this series:

• Lina Murari 
• Dagny Servaes 
• Yvonne Gall
• Want more?  just type in “Who’s that Girl” in the search bar.

The design of this coat is absolutely inspiring. I will have to buy a large and glamorous modern assiut shawl to make one of these for myself!  To learn more about this Valentino film “The Young Raja” on IMDB and Wikipedia. 

Happy Dance and Costuming, 
Dawn Devine ~ Davina – January 30, 2022

Hello There!  

I’m finally back on my feet after a 3-week struggle with Covid.  One of my key goals for 2022 is to teach more online sewing classes.  Although this is quite short notice, tomorrow I’ll have not one, not two, but three live presentations!  If you’re interested in learning about assiut, sewing rhinestone chain, or using the “Line and Drop” formula for designing bras, check out the information below!

I want to thank all the folks who have supported me through my Patreon growing pains of the past two months. We’ve got the bugs worked out of our filming setup and we are ready to go with our sewing series!  Perhaps you would like to join us for these January presentations either live or in a replay.

January Coffee Chat – Tuesday, January 25, 1:00 pm PDT 
Join me live to talk about the quarterly planning, work on the upcoming new book, and I’ll be discussing the design process and sharing sketches for the first batch of assiut costumes.
Replay available on Jan. 27 and beyond:  $3 level on Patreon.

Costuming Demo: Sewing Rhinestone Chain – Tuesday, January 25, 3:00 pm PDT
These are tips, techniques, and supply recommendations for costume design and sewing rhinestone chains.
Replay available on Jan. 27 and beyond:  $7 level on Patreon

Costuming Demo: Line and Drop Formula for Embellished Bras – Tuesday, January 25, 4:15 pm PDT
This is a redo of the botched demo from December. This is one of the easiest to do, but there are some essential design strategies and methods for quick and stress-free sewing.
Replay available on Jan. 27 and beyond:  $7 level on Patreon

Thank you so very much for your continued support of my research and writing!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
January 23, 2022

Turkish Tel-Kirma Demo Video

Today I want to take a moment to share this lovely video that I found over on YouTube.  I found it fascinating to watch a master embroidery artist working through the Turkish tel kirma stitch. This is demo uses the same single-stitch embroidery technique as Assiut.

Turkish Embroiderers Use Embroidery Hoops

This demo clearly shows us how an embroidery hoop is one of the key tools of the Turkish tel kirma artist.  A wide variety of fabrics are used in Turkish tel kirma work, and the embroidery appears on clothing, embellishing home furnishings, and even integrated into textile arts for hanging on walls. Turkish embroiderers use a hoop to stabilize this wide variety of textiles.

In this video, notice the fineness and transparency of this polyester mesh.  Without this hoop, this fabric with its soft hand would drape and flop, making high-quality embroidery challenging.  Egyptian artists, who primarily use cotton tulle, simply work with the cloth in their hands. Hoops aren’t required to keep the heavier Egyptian cotton under control.

Ottoman Single-Stitch Embroidery

In the 19th century, the tel kirma stitch spread throughout the Ottoman world.  You can find variations on this stitch in countries spanning the entire Ottoman empire. Each area under Ottoman rule developed its own regional style. Egyptian embroidery artists narrowed down to working exclusively with tulle by the 1920s.  The Assiut stitch appeared on lightly woven linen, cotton, or blended fabrics prior to the turn of the 20th century. As the taste for practical and beautiful mesh ground cloth for shawls and robes gained favor, Egyptian artists almost entirely switched.  It’s rare to find al-tally embroidery stitches on woven cloth garments after the first quarter of the 20th century.

Want to Try Tel Kirma?

Tel kirma is part of a family of stitches used in Turkish metal embroidery. The largest supplier of books, metal plate, needles, and fabric is Goblen.com. 

I have ordered from Goblen in the past. They ship internationally, and their orders have come well packaged and in a timely manner.

Their needles work well for making assiut. Unfortunately, I found the Turkish wire plate narrower than the aluminum strips favored in Egypt. But shopping at Goblen is a reliable way to source supplies and try this embroidery technique.

Happy Costuming & Dance!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Jan. 18, 2022

Happy Holidays!

If you happen to have costumer, designer, sewist, or tailor in your life, and are thinking about picking up last-minute gifts, here’s my quick list of studio essentials. I recommend shopping in local stores and specialty sewing and craft stores to support your community.  But if you can’t readily find these things in your area, I have included links to Amazon.  Note: As an author, I have an ongoing relationship with Amazon and these links are affiliated, and these links never add to cost for the buyer.

Gingher 5″ Craft Scissors 

Over the course of my sewing career, I’ve two pairs of these amazing little scissors.  They are the perfect size for wearing around the neck.  Unlike embroidery scissors, these have a longer, stronger blade.  I use them for trimming, grading, and notching seams.  But they will take care of any thread. One of my plans in 2022 is to make myself a new design pouch.  You know there will be a special pocked for these beloved scissors. Find it on Amazon. 

Dritz Quilting Needle Puller

When you feel like you’re losing your grip while hand sewing, these needle pullers will save the day.  Made out of silicone, this 3 count package provides you with enough to put in your hand sewing kit, your emergency mending kit, and even near your sewing machine.  I like this brand for its slightly thicker, textured circular shape that gives you plenty of grip for even the shortest and thinnest of needles.   Excellent for costume makers who are doing a lot of beading! Find it on Amazon

Omnigrid 3″ by 18″ Ruler

As a pattern maker, I find it essential to have a good ruler.  Over the years, I have found that the most sturdy, durable, and practical ruler is this model by Omnigid.  Thicker than other brands, and an inch wider than most gridded rulers, I find this model really suits my workflow and design methods. Find it on Amazon

Bobbin Saver 

My favorite studio organizing tool is the Bobbin Saver.  This little silicone donut is perfect for controlling my stash of filled bobbins.  It stores more than 20 bobbins, covering nearly all of my thread color needs.  The bobbins stay in place, and the threads don’t unwind.  I like to put a pin cushion in the central hole. Because my cats love to swallow a thread and pluck pins from a cushion, I keep the Bobbin Saver and pincushion combo in a covered sewing box safe from curious kittehs.  Find it on Amazon

Tailor’s Chalk

Whether I’m making fitting marks on almost finished garments or I’m transferring cutting lines onto cloth in the early stages of sewing, I reach for a piece of tailors chalk.  For centuries, perhaps millennia, tailors have used chalk to make marks on wool.  In the fullness of time, everyone who made clothes started using chalk to make critical marks on the cloth.  There are many offbeat and generic collections of chalk that seem to include the same four colors.  I like this triangle shape for its size in my hand and its easy grip.  Find it on Amazon.

I hope your holiday gift-giving brings you joy in both giving and receiving.
Dawn Devine ~ Davina,
Dec.14, 2021