Assiut Belly Dance Bra: Fusion Style

Assiut Belly Dance Bra: Fusion Style

This month I’m tackling this lovely pleated assiut bra for a local dancer. For this bra, I used some lovely assiut scraps to cover the center front. The sides of the cups are made of striped assiut fabric that I’ve pleated to bring the assiut stitches closer together. The pleats also accommodate the curved shape of the bra. At the bottom, the stripes overlap while at the top they spread to reveal more of the black ground tulle.

When a bra is bristling with pins, I call this the “Porcupine” stage.  As I hand sew, moving from the center front outwards, I’ll take each bra cup to the same level of completion, switching from left to right to ensure a symmetrical appearance.  Hand sewing takes a lot of time, but is essential when making a belly dance bra of any style.  Here are some of my top hand-sewing tips for working on a belly dance bra.

Six sewing tips for hand sewing a belly dance bra:

1 – Use waxed thread and a fresh needle.

2 – Make sure the pin tips are buried in the foam.

3 – Rest the center of the bra on a pressing ham for easy access to this area.

4 – Have a small iron ready to help with pressing.

5 – Use a thimble to push the needle through the bra.

6 – Take frequent breaks to hold a hot cup of beverage in your hands.


Want to see the Pleating Process?

If you want to see my hands in action creating this porcupine, hop over to Patreon and catch a demo at the $7 level.  I describe what I’m doing with a top-down viewing angle. You get to see how I handle the fabric, form the pleats, place the pins, and techniques I use to create symmetry with this beautiful hand-crafted assiut. 

I hope you have fun and great success
in all of your 2023 costuming adventures!

~ Dawn Devine ~ Davina

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By Davina

Davina ~ Dawn Devine is a belly dance costume designer, dance instructor and author of more than a dozen publications on Middle Eastern dance.