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Assiut/Assuit Costuming DIY General Jewelry

Making Jewelry Bigger using Jump Rings

This week I had the opportunity to perform with a group of my proteges who have been taking private belly dance lessons. Each year, the Haunted HaflAdira features local dancers dressing up in costume to take the stage and dance for our community.  As we planned our costumes, I found myself craving a light metallic pendant that would hang to my diaphragm. As you can see in this photo I decided to continue my hamsa motif and put together a double-decker pendent.

Above: Swirl, featuring Vakasha in Black and Gold, Davina in Blue, Zemira in Purple, and redvelvet in Rust.

More Jewelry?  Yes Please!

I’m always tweaking my costume looks, and what I needed to fine tune this ensemble was a longer pendant.  I wanted a piece that was large, had lots of movement and rested right where I wanted at the top of my diaphragm.  With a few simple tools, and some basic jewelry componentry I created an assemblage piece from existing trinkets.

Gather Your Jewelry Components

For this piece, I found three Turkish pieces all featuring the characteristic glass blue-eye designs. On the left is a door knocker or wall ornament, designed to be hung from the top loop on a nail or hook.

The keychain is a typical tourist trinket made from silver-toned pot-metal, but with the same swirling design and blue-eye details.

The last piece is a very tiny, delicate bracelet composed of the same blue eyes.

I also needed some chain to make this piece the length I desired and a clasp that would be easy to get it on and off in a hurry before and after a performance, but that was secure enough to hold the necklace in place.

Jewelry Making Tools

This pendant is made using basic jewelry.  Pliers designed for jewelry making are smooth, so the pressure of the tool doesn’t mar the surface of the metal.  Avoid using pliers from the hardware store, as they usually have serrated teeth to help keep a firm grip on projects.

Planning the Jewelry

I wanted a hand suspended from hand look with lots of movement and bounce.  I want this piece to hang lower than the rest of my jewelry, wearing it suspended at the level of my diaphragm.  This would allow me to bounce it with strategic body waves and chest lifts.

Disassembling the Jewelry Components

Once I have all the tools, parts and pieces together, the project only took a few minutes.  I started by removing the big glass eye from the bottom of the door knocker/wall hanging piece.  I also remove the top, leaving just a hand with four dangles.  Next, I took apart the keychain, removing the key ring.  Finally, I harvested 5 of the blue-eyed beads from the bracelet.

After I took those pieces apart, I’m left with this three items.  A big glass eye, which I attached to the keychain, the top of the door hanger, and four beads left on the deconstructed bracelet.

Combine Jewelry with Jump Rings

The next step is to take all the disassembled parts and pieces and create a new pendant. I used the tiny blue-eyed beads and their original jump rings, to attach them to the tips of the fingers to hang like dangles.  This mirrors the design of the door knocker/wall hanging piece.

I then attached this former keychain to the central finger of the wall hanging/door knocker piece. Overall, I am pretty happy with the way the new assemblage pendant looks.

Determine the Necklace Length

Once the pendant was finished, I put the costume onto my dress form and positioned the pendant where I wanted it to fall on my body.  Because I like to make jewelry for performance, I always have a few spools of chain in my stash.

I put the pendant on the chain, and played with the position until I had it at the best length.  I strategically choose this length so the top hamsa would rest right above my diaphragm.  This particular style of chain has links that open, so it was just a twist of the wrist and I had the perfect length chain.

Add a Closure to your Jewelry Piece

The final step is adding a closure to the necklace.  Although this piece is quite long and could easily go over my head, I always add a closure.  I frequently wear large and complicated turbans or headdresses, and it’s really handy to be able to put a piece of jewelry on and off without disturbing my costuming.

Jewelry Making Tools and Supplies

Here are just a few of the tools and supplies I keep on hand in my studio for making custom jewelry as I need it.  If you are into tribal style belly dance costuming, you may find yourself frequently using jewelry making techniques.  For glam dancers, having these tools on hand means that you can make repairs on your rhinestone necklaces and bracelets.  And of course, having the ability to redesign your jewelry to make pieces that are bigger and better is always a plus!

Basic Jewelry Making Kit: I started with a Beadalon Jewelry Toolkit similar to this one.  I still use the chain-nosed pliers today, nearly 20 years later.  What I love about this case, is that I can put my favorite closures and earring wires in the plastic organizer keeping everything together to grab and work without digging around for parts and pieces.

Jump Rings:  I always keep a selection of different sized jump rings in my toolkit to have on hand to make repairs and create new pieces. Getting a set with six different sizes and a storage box means that not only will you be prepared, but if you run out of a particular size, you can buy replacements by the baggie to refill your organizer.

 

I had so much fun dancing with my crew in these bright robes and almost, but not quite, excessive jewelry.  We had so much fun, we’re already planning for performances in December. Looks like there will be more jewelry making in my future!

Best of luck on all of your costuming and dance adventures!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Oct. 27, 2017

PS: If you enjoyed this post, why not share it with this image on Pinterest?  And tag me if ya do!

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General

Becoming A Belly Dancer: Kickstarter Premium Assiut Bras

Hello Gang!

Last fall, the team I worked with to produce our epic book, “Becoming a Belly Dancer: From Student to Stage,” hosted a super-successful Kickstarter campaign to help us take the project from the document stage to the finished product.  We were thrilled with the outpouring of support from our community of friends, students, and fans.  Our team put together a selection of treats for various different levels from book bundles, to assiut hair ornaments, book bags to custom costumes.

Two Assiut Belly Dance Bras

Our “Top Tier” premium included a custom designed, made-to-measure assiut bra.  I had a gorgeous scrap of assiut that would make four spectacular belly dance bras.  When our month-long campaign closed, we had two dancers sponsor us at the top tier!

Poppy Maya Designed a Glam Assiut Bra

Poppy Maya, our cover girl, is a professional costume maker, so we decided to each do one of the bras.  As it turned out, we had one “Glam” style bra and one “ATS-Tribal” style bra.  I have a huge stash of tribal jewelry parts and pieces, so I took on the design and construction of the tribal style bra.  Poppy made this gorgeous geometric assiut bra for our very happy dancer.  Look at how lovely that modern assiut bra looks paired with faux assiut leggings designed by Melodia.

Tribal Assiut Bra

My tribal dancer, Inara from Oxnard, California sent me a simple design brief.  She wanted beautiful assiut bra, with metal and coin embellishments. Fantastic!  That’s exactly the kind of bra that I LOVE to make!  After a quick inventory of my assiut pieces, I did a couple of rough sketches.  Here is a quick snapshot of my rough drawing. I choose to add a lot of coins via a pair of removable coin and chain drapes so she would have loads of flexibility in her look.

To maximize the metal of the assiut, and without covering it with loads of coins, I decided to divide each cup with a verticle row of shield-shaped metal embellishments. While I know she loves the coins, I really wanted the jewelry components to frame the assiut.

 

Belly Dancer Inara wears a custom assiut bra by Studio Davina - www.davina.us

 

It took us a few months to arrange a photo shoot with my favorite photographer, Alisha Westerfeld, but when we finally were all together in the same room, the results are lovely.  Above, you can see the details of the assiut.  Below, we went for a totally different dark fusion look.

I’m very grateful for these two ladies who helped us take our dreams to the next level by supporting our Kickstarter campaign.  I’m so proud and happy of these two designs!

Happy Costuming and Delicious 
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July 21, 2017

 

Belly Dancer Inara wears a custom assiut bra by Studio Davina paired with a skirt and head by Melodia | www.davina.us

Categories
Assiut/Assuit General

Is that Gloria Swanson wearing Assiut?

Hello gang!

Recently on the assiut discussion group over on FaceBook, several of us carefully analyzed the shawl worn by Gloria Swanson in the role of Norma Desmond in the seminal film, Sunset Boulevard.  In the scene where she dramatically descends the stairs “Alright Mr. DeMille, I’m ready for my closeup.”

Although at first glance the shawl draped over her shoulder appears to be made from assiut, it’s most likely one of its close metal embroidery relatives.  It could be a Turkish, tel kirma style shawl, or it could possibly of Indian origin and is covered with badlah stitches.  But not matter what this shawl was made of, it’s strikingly beautiful and flashes with a myriad of metal stitches in the same manner of assiut or tulle bi telli from Egypt does.

The dressers at the famed wax museum, Madame Tussauds draped their version of Norma Desmond in a shawl of modern cream assiut that catches the light with the same metallic gleam.  You can find her today standing at the base of replica stairs, alone and poised with her claw-like hand and that classic mad expression forever fixed in her eyes.   Stop by for a visit next time you’re in Hollywood!

Now – I think I have to get ready for a close-up of my own!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
July 10, 2017

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Belly Dance Costuming DIY General Publications

Blast from the Past: Costumer’s Notes Magazine

Memories – Oh how time flies when you’re having fun! After my co-author Alisha Westerfeld and I finished up with my book “The Cloth of Egypt: All About Assiut,” we had a great big party!  We also launched a beautiful “behind the scenes” full-color magazine, entitled “Costumer’s Notes: Behind the Seams – The Making of Cloth of Egypt.”    This magazine is free to view and read on the Issuu website.  In addition, Issuu has recently let us know that you can also print it on demand too!  If you like the way it looks and you want a copy for your own bookshelf and reference library, just follow the link on the Issuu website and you can a copy of your own!

My team of collaborators, photographer Alisha Westerfeld and Author Sara Shrapnell and I are contemplating releasing another magazine. We’re taking a long look at this publication and brainstorming what we would like to do next. In the next few weeks, we will be having a series of meetings, and with luck, will be formulating a plan of action to bring another beautiful, informative, full-color digital magazine devoted to our favorite subject, belly dance, to the Issuu website.

In the meantime, take a peek at our last digital magazine! If you like assiut, you will love flipping through the pages. I’m off to brainstorm!

I’m eager to see what happens in 2017!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
Feb. 13, 2017

Categories
Assiut/Assuit Costuming DIY General

High Speed Design – Pinning on Applique

Throughout the month of January, I’ve been working on enhancing my workspace by installing lights and a camera mount over the table to shoot still shots and video from above.  My mission for 2017 is to make video instructionals and digital workshops. My goal is to “show not tell,” and take the content that currently exists in my book, and demonstrate the key concepts in more real-time ways.

Over the past few weeks, I’ve used this bra as my “sample” and have shot probably 20 hours of video of the process of making this bra.  I pinned.  Then I unpinned.  I shot.  Then I reshot.  Making this the most “expensive” bra, in terms of labor, that I’ve ever made!  Figuring out an ideal height for the camera and the amount of light needed were the two biggest technical hurdles.  However, THE most difficult part is learning to keep my hands and the costume in the frame.

So this is my first video of me in the process of designing an assiut bra.  Over the next few weeks, I’ll have more clips of this bra under construction right up to the finished product.  While I am positive these videos will be a little rough around the edges, I hope you enjoy them!  And now, I’m off to sew – which has now become code for – “make a video!”

To 2017 Goals in Dance and Costuming!
Dawn Devine ~ Davina
February 6, 2017